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Aurora Photo Gallery Ordering Prints Photography Tips Recommended Books Low-cost Film & New Equipment Where to Buy Used Equipment My Equipment & Film Choices Audiophile Pages Reviews of My DIY Cables DIY AC Mains Power Cables DIY Cat5 Speaker Cable DIY Fine Silver Interconnects DIY AES/EBU Digital Cable VH Audio (Cables & Parts) V-Cap TeflonŽ Audio Capacitors H/T Subwoofer Kit Car Audio Parts Audio Related Books
Aurora Photo Gallery Ordering Prints Photography Tips Recommended Books Low-cost Film & New Equipment Where to Buy Used Equipment My Equipment & Film Choices Audiophile Pages Reviews of My DIY Cables DIY AC Mains Power Cables DIY Cat5 Speaker Cable DIY Fine Silver Interconnects DIY AES/EBU Digital Cable VH Audio (Cables & Parts) V-Cap TeflonŽ Audio Capacitors H/T Subwoofer Kit Car Audio Parts Audio Related Books
Aurora Photo Gallery Ordering Prints Photography Tips Recommended Books Low-cost Film & New Equipment Where to Buy Used Equipment My Equipment & Film Choices Audiophile Pages Reviews of My DIY Cables DIY AC Mains Power Cables DIY Cat5 Speaker Cable DIY Fine Silver Interconnects DIY AES/EBU Digital Cable VH Audio (Cables & Parts) V-Cap TeflonŽ Audio Capacitors H/T Subwoofer Kit Car Audio Parts Audio Related Books
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If you have the capability of using the AES/EBU interface with your digital equipment, I highly recommend using it vs. digital coaxial cable (S/PDIF). In my experience the digital AES/EBU works significantly better in all system configurations I have tried, including my current system. These IC's still remain my reference. Why Belden 1874A?
* 24 AWG Solid Bare Copper
Click here for full specs. on this cable Parts Required:
* Neutrik Male and Female XLR plugs- available at Parts Express * 1/4" O.D. Polyethylene Tubing- available at most Hardware
Stores. This is commonly sold as "ice maker tubing".
* Polyester Yarn- available at most Fabric Stores
Construction:
Step 2) Segregate the twisted pair with the least amount of twists per inch. In my cable it was the green pair. Step 3) Take the polyester yarn and wind it around the twisted pair along its length until you have built up just enough thickness for the wire + yarn to be eventually pulled through the 1/4 O.D. Polyethylene tubing. Step 4) Cut the Polyethylene tubing to desired finished length. Step 5) Fish one of the other (previously removed) pairs of wire down the tubing until about 2" is sticking out the other side. This wire will be used to pull the wire (with the yarn on it) through the tubing. Step 6) Pull the wire with the yarn on it through the tubing by using the wire inside the tubing in Step 5. The wire with the yarn on it should be relatively snug, but still able to be pulled through with ease. Pull until you have pigtails of the wire with yarn sticking out of each tubing end. Discard the "fish" wire. Step 7) Trim wire length and strip for termination. Terminate both ends with the Neutrik XLR's. You will not need to use Pin 1 (ground). Step 8) Plug them in and enjoy! I did not find that these needed alot of break-in time, but your system may be different. I also use mine unshielded, however you may want to shield yours by doing this:
Before you terminate, take some aluminum foil (like Reynolds
Wrap) and cut into long 1" strips. Wind these strips of aluminum foil around
the PE tubing in a "mummy wrap" style. Make sure to overlap the foil so
you get 100% coverage of HF heebie-jeebies- you should have about 2 layers. Starting at the load end of
the IC, tape a bare copper wire (about 24 ga.) to the end of the tubing
and proceed to wind the wire around the foil, about one complete spiral
for every 3 inches or so. Terminate this drain wire to the source
end XLR only at the ground (usually Pin 1). The other end of the drain
wire should not be terminated. Sensitivity of digital signals to EMI problems associated with ground loops is at least as critical (if not more so) than analogue systems- so DON'T connect the load end to ground. If you wish, you may now use expandable
nylon sleeving to give the cable a hi-end look. Finish terminating
the XLR's.
Notes: * This cable IS NOT the same as Cat5 Cable. The bonded, twisted pairs of the 1874A are responsible for the tight impedance toleranceand make it ideal for digital AES/EBU. Regular Cat5 is NOT suitable. * You may also use copper shielding braid, but you should still use the foil too. Braid is good for shielding lower frequencies, and foil is good at HF. Since digital signals are high frequency signals in the MHz range, foil is the way to go. If you are looking for an assembled cable, please check out what VH Audio has to offer. Would you like to review your "finished cable"? Click here Legal Stuff:
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